What Do Axolotls Eat?

Keeping axolotls thriving at home means mimicking the rich diet they experience in nature. In the wild, these aquatic salamanders hunt worms, insects and small fish by creating a vacuum with their mouths and swallowing prey whole. They don’t chew, so food must be small enough to swallow and soft enough to digest. A varied diet and proper feeding schedule are crucial. Below is a beginner‑friendly guide to safe foods at every life stage, plus the pros and cons of live, frozen and pellet foods and what human foods may be on the menu.

Feeding Basics and Life‑Stage Diets

Hatchlings and Larvae (0–1 inch):

• Feeding frequency: Newly hatched axolotls have very fast metabolisms and need to eat 2–3 times per day. Their gills and lateral line are wired to detect movement, so they often only respond to live prey.

• Suitable foods: Tiny live foods such as newly hatched brine shrimp, microworms, daphnia and cut up blackworms are ideal. Uneaten food should be removed to avoid fouling the water.

• Tips: Culture live foods at home to ensure freshness and avoid parasites. Offer only what they can finish in 10–15 minutes, and siphon out leftovers to keep water quality high.

Juveniles (1–7 inches):

• Feeding frequency: Juveniles should be fed once or twice per day until they reach about 7 inches. As their metabolism slows, feeding can be reduced.

• Suitable foods: Introduce small earthworms (red wigglers, European nightcrawlers), cut up nightcrawlers, live blackworms or soft sinking salmon pellets. Frozen bloodworms can supplement but shouldn’t replace live foods.

• Tips: Pieces should never be longer than the width of the head to avoid choking. Rinse worms to remove dirt and cut them into manageable lengths before offering.

Adults (7 inches and up):

• Feeding frequency: Adults have slower digestion; feed them only every 2–3 days. Overfeeding leads to obesity and poor water quality.

• Suitable foods: Large earthworms, European nightcrawlers, soft sinking pellets with ≥40 % protein and <10 % fat, and occasional frozen bloodworms/brine shrimp for variety. Adults can handle larger prey but still swallow food whole, so keep prey lengths appropriate.

• Tips: Use a feeding dish or tongs to contain messy foods and remove leftovers after 20 minutes.

Frozen Foods – Convenient But Use Sparingly

Frozen foods offer convenience when live foods aren’t available. They typically come in cubes of bloodworms, brine shrimp, krill or mysis shrimp. Frozen foods should not be allowed to thaw and be refrozen, as refreezing can further degrade nutrients. While convenient, there are drawbacks:

• Low nutritional value: Frozen bloodworms contain only 6–8 % protein and are mostly water. Feeding them as a staple can slow growth in young axolotls and cause obesity in adults.

• Water quality issues: Uneaten frozen food will decompose and pollute the water if not removed promptly. This decay can also promote fungal growth, which may release spores that attach to an axolotl’s gills and lead to a fungal infection

• Lack of variety: Solely feeding frozen foods deprives axolotls of the complex nutrients and stimulation they get from live prey.

Use frozen foods as an occasional supplement rather than a primary diet. When selecting products, choose brands that add vitamins and check expiry dates.

Pellets – Handy But Choose Soft Formulations

Pellets are useful for axolotl keepers who dislike handling worms. However, the type of pellet matters:

• Soft sinking pellets: Soft salmon pellets with around 45 % protein and less than ~10 % fat should be used. Soft, moist pellets are easier for axolotls to swallow and digest.

• Hard sinking carnivore pellets: Products may be extremely hard and designed not to break down. Pellets often remain intact in an axolotl’s stomach and can cause impaction or regurgitation. Hard pellets digest slowly and may still be visible in the gut hours later. Overfeeding them leads to bloating, constipation and gas.

• Feeding tips: Offer only a few pellets at a time and wait for your axolotl to finish before adding more. Use a feeding dish to prevent pellets from sinking into substrate. Remove any uneaten pellets to reduce water fouling and prevent the growth of fungus. Rotate pellets with live foods to provide variety and avoid nutritional gaps.

Dried and Freeze‑Dried Foods – Why They’re Not Ideal

Freeze‑dried bloodworms, brine shrimp and mealworms may seem like convenient options, but they are nutritionally poor. Freeze‑drying removes much of the original moisture and destroys heat‑sensitive vitamins, leaving little more than protein and fiber. Freeze‑dried foods lose most of their nutritional value and shouldn’t even be fed as snacks. Additionally:

• Indigestible exoskeletons: Mealworms and other dried insects have chitinous shells that axolotls cannot digest. Chitin pieces can clog filters and remain in the tank for months.

• Risk of constipation: Dried foods absorb water in the gut, potentially causing constipation or impaction. They also encourage gulp feeding, leading to air swallowing and floating issues.

For these reasons, dried foods should be completely avoided. 

Safe occasional treats include:

•  Boiled Shrimp: Use plain, store-bought shrimp (no seasoning, oil, or salt). Boil it until fully cooked, let it cool, then cut it into tiny pieces smaller than your axolotl’s head. Shrimp is rich in protein but can be messy, so feed small amounts and remove any leftovers quickly to prevent fouling the water.

• Boiled Egg (White Only): Hard-boil an egg, remove the yolk (which is fatty and can cloud water), and finely chop or mash the egg white. It’s soft, easy to swallow, and provides a protein boost, but like shrimp, it spoils fast and should only be an occasional snack.

Important:
These treats are meant as a fun change of pace, not a substitute for their usual diet. Always feed them in moderation and clean up leftovers within a few minutes to keep the water healthy.

Feeding Tips and Common Mistakes

1. Variety is essential. A monotonous diet can lead to nutritional deficiencies. Rotate earthworms, blackworms, soft pellets and occasional frozen foods.

2. Control portions. Adults only need to be fed every 2–3 days. Overfeeding leads to obesity, constipation and poor water quality. A meal should be about the size of the axolotl’s head.

3. Remove uneaten food. Whether live, frozen or human food, remove leftovers within 15–20 minutes to prevent fungal growth and ammonia spikes.

4. Observe your axolotl. Every individual has preferences; watch for weight loss, regurgitation or unusual floating. Hard pellets that remain visible in the stomach should be discontinued.

5. Never feed live feeder fish from pet stores. They often carry parasites and stress the axolotl. If you must use fish, use quarantined small fish as occasional enrichment and remove uneaten fish promptly.

Final Thoughts

Axolotls are fascinating pets, and feeding them properly is key to their health and happiness. From wriggling brine shrimp for hungry hatchlings to juicy earthworms for adults, aim for a varied, high‑protein diet with minimal fat. Live foods stimulate natural hunting and provide the best nutrition, while frozen foods and soft sinking pellets can be useful supplements when used sparingly. Avoid freeze‑dried foods and hard pellets, which are difficult to digest and offer little nutrition. By following these guidelines, you’ll ensure your axolotl grows into a healthy adult with a bright appetite.